The Chrysanthemum Festival is one of the five seasonal festivals in Japan that take place on odd-numbered months. The reason for holding important festivals on such dates in particular comes from the ancient Japanese philosophy of Onmyodo, which considered odd numbers as auspicious.
The five seasonal festivals celebrated in Japan are:
- Jinjitsu, also known as “Feast of Seven Herbs” (January 7th)
- Hinamatsuri, also known as Girl’s Day (March 3rd)
- Children’s Day / Boy’s Festival (May 5th)
- Tanabata (July 7th)
- Chrysanthemum Festival, also called the “Double Ninth Festival” (September 9th)
During the Chrysanthemum Festival, religious ceremonies meant to ward off evil spirits and pray for longevity were held at the Imperial Palace. It is said that in the past drinking wine infused with chrysanthemum flowers and reading poetry were one of the important parts of the festival as well. Today, the festival remains as one of the more widely-observed religious events in Japan and various temples and shrines hold rituals to celebrate it.
Chrysanthemum as a symbol for longevity
In traditional Japanese culture, chrysanthemums were believed to have the power to prolong life. As a result, the custom of soaking their flowers in alcohol (and creating chrysanthemum’s sake) or using them in bathwater has been passed down across generations. One of the old customs involved placing cotton on chrysanthemum flowers on the night before the festival. The scent is transferred into the cotton along with the morning dew, and is then used to purify one’s body as a way of praying for youth and longevity.
The harvest festival
Before adapting the Gregorian calendar, the lunar calendar was the main system for recording dates and years in Japan. As such, although September 9th was the original date of the Chrysanthemum Festival back when the lunar calendar was still in use, it would have fallen on October according to the Gregorian calendar. For farmers, this would have been the time of harvesting crops, which led to yet another name this festival is known by – the Chestnut Festival. Traditionally seasonal foods such as chestnut rice or buns would be eaten in celebration. Today too, you can find many chestnut sweets sold alongside chrysanthemum sweets during this time. Eating them is a form of celebrating harvest as well as praying for a long, healthy life.
Rituals held at different shrines and temples
Kamigamo Shrine - Karasuzumo (Crow Sumo) Wrestling and Choyo Ritual
Kamigamo-jinja Shrine celebrates the Chrysanthemum Festival with two special rituals.
The first ceremony, called the Choyo Ritual, is held in front of the main shrine. Shinto priests offer chrysanthemums before the altar and pray for longevity and protection from disasters.
The second ritual begins afterwards, in a sumo ring set in front of the Hosodono Hall and the tatesuna sand cones. Two shrine attendants dressed in white attire imitate the sounds of crows and jump in front of the sand cones. Once they finish, a sumo wrestling match between children is held as a religious performance. The Saio-dai (honorary high priestess) watches the ceremony from within the Hosodono Hall.
Daikaku-ji Temple - Chrysanthemum Viewing
During the Heian period (794 – 1185), aristocrats would hold ceremonies during which they would compose poems for each other while gazing at the blooming chrysanthemums. As the original date of the festival has remained the same despite the change of the lunar calendar into the Gregorian calendar, it is now difficult to view chrysanthemums around the time of the festival. Instead, chrysanthemum-viewing events are organized from late October through November in various places such as Nishi Hongwan-ji Temple and Daikaku-ji Temple.
Horin-ji Temple – Jido of the Chrysanthemum
Horin-ji Temple is famous among the locals of Kyoto for its “Jusan Mairi” ritual where children who turned 13 years old pay it a visit. During the Chrysanthemum Festival, a doll representing the character of Kiku-Jido (Jido of the Chrysanthemum) is displayed at the temple. According to a legend, Kiku-Jido was a boy banished for the crime of stepping over the emperor’s headrest. Thanks to the power of a chrysanthemum leaf inscribed with two verses of a buddhist sutra, the boy lives for seven hundred years despite his exile. The story of Kiku-Jido has been adapted into a Noh play with the same title, alternatively called “Makura-Jido” (Jido of the Headrest). In addition to a religious ritual held at the Temple, Noh music and dance are also performed.
Kurumazaki-jinja Shrine - Choyo ritual
The Kurumazaki-jinja shrine is known for bringing blessings in financial luck, love, academics and arts. First, a prayer for health, longevity and good fortune is offered. Afterwards, a ritual bugaku dance is performed with chrysanthemums decorating the dancer’s hair (also showcased in the main photo of this article). This ritual is held rain or shine.
