Higashiyama at Dawn: Kiyomizu-dera Temple to Yasaka-jinja Shrine and Gion

A sacred place of prayer cherished through the ages

Kiyomizu-dera Temple was founded around 1,250 years ago as a sacred site enshrining Kannon, the Buddhist deity symbolizing compassion. Ancient texts and literature show large numbers of people visiting this temple to pay their respects.

While the expansive grounds spreading across the slopes of Mount Otowa contain many places that captivate visitors, the most famous is undoubtedly the Main Hall, or Hondo, which is built into a cliff face. The section of the Hondo that projects out over the cliff is known as the stage, or butai, and is so well-known that it has given rise to the Japanese expression, “to jump from the stage at Kiyomizu,” meaning to take a leap or make a life-changing decision.

The gates of Kiyomizu-dera Temple open at 6 AM, making it the perfect spot for a morning walk in the crisp Kyoto air. Visit the grounds of the temple in the dawn light to forget the hustle and bustle of everyday life and encounter the ancient capital of Japan in its true form.

Quiet streets and rows of traditional Kyoto townhouses

Leave Kiyomizu-dera Temple, walk for a few minutes, turn right, and you will find yourself on Sannenzaka. Also known as the Three-Year Slope, this road and Ninenzaka—which it leads to—form a historic route that has guided many worshippers to the temples and shrines for centuries. Partway down the sloping streets the view opens up to reveal Yasaka Pagoda (Hokan-ji Temple) rising up before you.

During the day these are the bustling streets of a lively temple town, but early in the morning they reclaim their true tranquility. Walking along stone-paved lanes still glistening softly with morning dew, you may feel like you have slipped back in time as you pass rows of historic Kyoto townhouses.

Note: Since this is also a residential area where many people live, be considerate of those around you when taking photographs, refrain from using tripods, and do not block the road.

Enjoy breakfast and a hot coffee in the early morning air

Since Kodai-ji opens to visitors at 9 AM, we recommend a visit to Maeda Coffee Kodai-ji Temple Shop while you wait. Just steps from Kodai-ji, this delightful establishment offers breakfasts of fragrant coffee and bread in the relaxed atmosphere of a Kyoto townhouse, as well as Japanese curry rice. Their morning curry is very popular.

The guardian deity watching over the streets of Gion

Walking further north, you will come upon a stone Torii gate inscribed with the characters “八坂神社” (Yasaka-jinja Shrine). Once known as “Gion Shrine,” and still affectionately referred to as “Gion-san,” Yasaka-jinja Shrine marks the end of this walk in Higashiyama.

On leaving the shrine grounds through the west gate, you are met with the quintessential Kyoto sight of the streets of Gion spreading out before you, all the way to the station. If you choose to head east, you will come to Maruyama Park, known for the beauty of its cherry blossoms, and thereafter arrive at the magnificent temple complex of Chion-in Temple.

Despite the rewards this route offers, an early start will see you arrive at your final destination while it is still early in the day. You can continue your journey on foot in the crisp morning air, or catch a train to your destination, the choice is entirely yours. Enjoy a wonderful day in Kyoto!

Note: Yasaka-jinja Shrine welcomes large numbers of worshippers. Please observe proper etiquette to ensure a pleasant and respectful visit for everyone.