The young steward, or “waka okami” overseeing daily affairs at the quiet and artistic Nenrinbo Ryokan is the vivacious Noriko Mabuchi.

 

Noriko grew up in this ryokan family, and after going to university in Tokyo, and spending another few months living there, she eventually returned to Kyoto and began working here. Since becoming a waka okami, she even traveled to New York City with others in the ryokan industry to promote Kyoto’s ryokan.

 

Noriko enjoys some of Kyoto’s traditional arts, too: she practices ikebana (traditional flower arrangement) and tea ceremony, though she says that recently she prefers tea ceremony with sencha (a more standard Japanese tea) to matcha tea ceremonies. In sencha tea ceremony, she explains, she finds the utensils cute, and she appreciates the philosophy behind it, that people from different parts of society can come together to drink, all with the same tea, the same amount, in the same cups.

With a long history in Kyoto, the advice of a waka okami like Noriko can make for some invaluable recommendations for how to enjoy the city, especially nearby the ryokan.

 

You’ll be surprised at how much it feels like you’ve gone out into the mountains, given the beautiful views in the area, although the trip is just a brief taxi ride from Kyoto’s busy downtown area.

 

Takagamine, the area in which Nenrinbo Ryokan is located, is famous for Kyoto vegetables, known as kyo-yasai. Nenrinbo uses these local vegetables in its foods, as well as miso from a producer that has been in business since Japan’s Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568-1600)!

 

Haradani-en Garden, Noriko says, is one of her favorite spots to see cherry blossoms.

Daitoku-ji Temple is another recommendation she describes as a big, wonderful zen temple with not too many people, so visitors can relax. Plus, “just looking at the temple grounds is lovely.”

 

Imamiya-jinja Shrine is a somewhat unique location. Many people visit the shrine to pray for marriage to a wealthy partner.

 

Finally, she says, she recommends Genko-an Temple for a kind of quiet feeling you can’t really enjoy at a large temple.

The large garden at Nenrinbo, worthy of any temple, is an unusual feature for a ryokan: it features ten cherry trees, whose blossoms nearly brush the guest room windows during the cherry blossom season. If you’re really lucky, you may be able to look down on the blossoms from a private bath in your room!

 

Most of the rooms feature traditional tatami flooring, but there are also two combination Japanese-Western style rooms with beds, which can also be used by guests that require wheelchair accessibility. There is also a public bath available, looking out over a view of the mountains.

 

The city center may not be so far away, but you won’t hear the sounds of cars and buses here: just the sound of the birds and the rustling of the grass.