Due to this situation, a search for “ethical fashion” practices that can contribute to easing environmental and labor problems has been on the rise. In Japan, there is a traditional method that promotes ethics in fashion. Kusakizome which uses botanical and other natural dyes is a dyeing method that accords well with the traditional way of life in Japan in which harmony with both society and with nature has been valued. Kusakizome has been used in Japan from ancient times and has been a part of everyday life. 

 
 I went to a workshop run by Kyoto Kawabata Shoten, a company in Kyoto that has adopted a 1500-year-old kusakizome method in their production. I learned about the company there, and then interviewed the president, Yasuo Kawabata, on a project he worked on with students. 

 

 Printing using petroleum-based dyes is a relatively easy and efficient method that didn’t require expert skills. On the other hand, it can have substantial negative effects on the environment and human health. 15 years ago, Mr. Kawabata took the plunge and started developing a type of kusakizome method with Mr. Mitsuo Kimura, who was professor emeritus of Mie University. The result was a dyeing method named “Shin-Manyozome” using natural raw materials such as plants and insects. For example, vivid dye colors are made using marigolds for yellow, cochineal for pink and logwood for light blue. Kyoto Kawabata Shoten sells shawls dyed with the Shin-Manyozome method. 

 The characteristic features of the Shin-Manyozome method are that it requires minimum time and dye, and that no heating is needed for dyeing. Developing the Shin-Manyozome method and shifting to kusakizome dye has had good results, including being able to dye wonderful hues that couldn’t be made using synthetic dyes. Plus, the way the air smells in the factory improved and the wastewater became easier on the environment because both the dyeing solution and the mordant solution are now able to be returned to nature.

 

 Also, environmental pollution was increasingly seen as a serious problem during the time Shin-Manyozome was being developed. At the time, Kyoto Kawabata Shoten was doing silkscreen printing, a printing method used to print patterns on textile, and was facing issues related to the disposal of the discarded ink and wastewater. Then, in order to solve the problems, the Shin-Manyozome method was applied to develop a new printing method called “e Print.” E Print does not use petroleum-based or synthetic dyes and instead uses only natural pigments to print on products like T-shirts. All ingredients, including the auxiliary materials, are made from natural ingredients so the wastewater can be returned to nature when it’s discharged. Finally, findings through developing e Print were then applied to improve the Shin-Manyozome method’s quality of color development and wastewater.

 

 Recently, major apparel companies have started to state their support for ethical fashion and the SDGs, but I have been worried that there aren’t enough instructors that are capable of addressing these themes in schools. I expect that conventional apparel companies in Japan will see a great decline in their business. The Shin-Manyozome method is an innovative method that goes beyond conventional kusakizome. Upon planning the project, I also hoped to offer the students a chance to learn about this novel technology which Dr. Kimura invented using clues from ancient technology.

 

 Also, I think I was able to spread the concept of environment-friendly production through this project. Whether it be the fashion industry or not, the students are sure to work in an environment where efficiency is constantly required. I think that, even amid that environment, there will soon be pioneers in the world of fashion that will opt for ethical production and skillfully practice it.

 

 I also thought that exploring and passing on traditional technologies that have been practiced since ancient times may be an approach that will be important when contemplating the future of ethical fashion. When we look back on history, we can see that we have always created items for our daily lives using materials that existed locally. Production within our living environment would have naturally made us establish relationships with others in our community and with the natural environment.

 The lack of relationships with others and nature in modern life due to the large-scale division of labor, caused by prioritizing efficiency, may be the background to various social issues that are recently surfacing. Because we don’t have a clear vision of the cycle of production and our relationship to that cycle, we unknowingly do harm to the environment and to workers.

 The concept of “ethics” in industry may sound like a whole new field, but in fact, coming to terms with cultural traditions that have been passed down for generations might be the first step to be taken. Like the proverb says, “He that would know what shall be must consider what has been,” it might be a good idea to turn to traditional, local expertise to find answers for encouraging a future of ethical production.